Happy Californiaversary to me! I moved to California one year ago on Labor Day weekend! And what a year it has been! Though COVID is ever present and we are even seeing a resurgence now, I have felt safer to do things here in this lovely state and have made beautiful friends to do things with. I went to the Jazz Fest at the Hollywood Bowl. I saw the Cubs beat the Dodgers at Chavez Ravine. I've gone hiking all over Orange County and stargazing at Joshua Tree National Park. I spent a lovely weekend sipping cucumber chia agua fresca at a spa in the Desert Hot Springs. I visit Crystal Cove State Park nearly every week with Lucy, my dog; often catching a stunning sunset. I had a lovely week of silent meditation at the Wrigley mansion, Mt. Ada, on Catalina Island. I am amazed that my introverted self got out there so much!
And of course the highlight of my year began in May, merely 4 months ago, at Newport Pier learning to surf, and where I've spent at least one day nearly every weekend since then continuing the journey with my Surf Crew Cheer Squad. Today, I realized how much I've learned, how much has become automatic on surf day, and so here is the play by play for today. I should have gone into logistics.
Organize the car the night before. Recline seats, spread blanket. Load towels and other gear that has been drying inside the house.
6 am, walk, snuggle, and feed doggo, get dressed -- wetsuit or just swimsuit? -- swallow coffee.
Grab water, keys, phone in one hand, and pull the surfboard out from beside the dining room hutch with the other, and out the door by 6:30 am.
Pop trunk as I round the corner.
Slide surfboard in, tipping it up so it goes over the reclined seat, but not so far that it gets caught on the opening of the trunk. I can do this one-handed now, which is no small achievement.
Notice lovely sunrise over the mountains if there's no fog.
Breathe in the quiet for a moment...grateful for the day.
Start driving. Check air temperature. Today, it was 64 F.
Ponder: Who am I? Up at 6 am on a weekend to go surfing when it's 64!?
Notice the marine layer -- is it there? How far in? Today was clear. A rare beautiful blue sky morning.
From Jamboree, turn right onto Pacific Coast Highway, and immediately get over two lanes.
Look at beautiful view of the harbor as we go over the bridge.
Exit right, around the curve, bracing surfboard, to Newport Blvd. Begin to see other people with surfboards on, in, and around their cars. Bicycles with surfboard racks for those too young yet to drive.
Turn right on 32nd Street, and left on Balboa Blvd. Go by all of the other jetties I haven't really seen from the beach yet, but where I've heard the surf is bigger. Make mental note to go see the surfing there some day.
Go by Jack's Surfboards. Make mental note to check that place out to get any of a number of things: traction stickers for my board and a wetsuit jacket without seams in the armpits are currently at the top of the shopping list.
Admire the tall, skinny palm trees that symbolize California. I pinch myself with the reminder that I LIVE HERE NOW. Still, even after a year, I still do that.
Follow the sign to Newport Pier Parking. Find plenty of parking at 6:45 ish. (Mates struggle to find parking by 8 am.)
Park. Get out the parking app. $6.74 to park for 3 hours. Sip of water. Check the tide -- super low today. Bummer. Check Surfline. Water temp 69 F. Conditions "poor," 1-2 feet. I think, "Perfect."
Bathroom?
Text the crew that I've arrived, going to Tower 22. Tuck phone into car console.
Open trunk. Gear up. Wetsuit jacket. Booties. Suntan lotion. Sharkbanz. Hat and sunglasses today? Keys in the DriPac. It is now normal to strip down to a sports bra and pants in a parking lot.
Sliiiiiide The Admiral out of the trunk. Close the lid, lock the car, tuck the DriPac into jacket.
Hike through the parking lot. Hike over the sand.
Find the girls.
Hop in the water.
COLD.
JOY.
I heard a bunch of kids screaming in delight today as they body boarded near the shore. I then realized I was one of them. :) I can't wait to try surfing in Hawai'i. I can't wait until I can stand up. I can't wait until I have to decide RIGHT or LEFT. I can't wait.... Happy Californiaversary!
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