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A Blue Mass
Dawn Patrol. First light. The alarm chimed at 5:30 this morning; I was in the car by 5:40, everything sorted. The preparations now are...
May 1720 min read
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The Catalog of Mysterious Bruises
It starts with my hand. I notice that my right hand feels strained and achy. I flex my fingers and roll my wrist to see if the pain is...
May 1123 min read
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From Hunger to Breath
There is a division in the surf group. Yes, it's not all perfection over here -- just very close to it. ;) The division exists between...
Apr 2817 min read
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Oceans of Compassion
There's no actual surfing here. If there was, then I'd never leave. On the home page of my website is a quote from Jon Kabat-Zinn, "You...
Apr 1020 min read
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The Wild Life
I had the opportunity to apply for a new job the other day. It was a "real" job: one in which I would need to wear "real" clothes and...
Mar 2018 min read
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Blue Nail Polish
Saturday, there was a shooting on the pier. Someone accused of shooting another human in another town drove their car to Newport Beach,...
Feb 1420 min read
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Walled
While a common phrase in surfing is "When in doubt, paddle out," there was no doubt the other about the conditions. Water temperature 56...
Jan 3020 min read
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Getting Snaked
Let's first focus on the absolute decadence of this surf sesh: clear blue sky, crystal clear cold water, the bright sun warming my...
Jan 1017 min read
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Custody of the Eyes
In a Facebook post on the Surfing Life, Tibetan Buddhist monk Anam Thubten wrote, "When I first came from Tibet, I found the ocean to be...
Dec 11, 202421 min read
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Maya and the Wave
Awhile back, a couple of us drove up to Santa Monica to see a screening of the film Maya and the Wave . Maya Gabeira  is a big wave...
Nov 20, 202418 min read
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Halloween Costume Surf
Happy Halloween, Witches! Our surf coven surfed in costume this Halloween season and had a wonderful time on a glorious morning. A...
Nov 12, 202419 min read
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Livin' the Dream
We had a wonderful experience the other day with our awesome surf instructor, Paige , at Doheny. A number of us commissioned her to take...
Oct 24, 202414 min read
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The Gray Cathedral
From Google AI: "The marine layer is a weather phenomenon that occurs when cool, moist air from the ocean meets warmer, drier air from...
Oct 7, 20248 min read
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Local Summer
I went to the beach recently on my own. I sat in the sand on my deep blue cotton towel south of Balboa Pier and stared at the ocean for...
Sep 26, 202411 min read
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Wave Selection
This has been such a big summer – expansive in many ways. I continue to stand up now and stay up on the board nearly every time. After 16...
Sep 15, 202418 min read
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Failing Expectations
I can so do it now, people. I don't know what has happened, but it has CLICKED. I can stand up on every wave I catch now. My feet just...
Sep 8, 202410 min read
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Breathing With
We did another class with Waterlogged this weekend -- a 6-hour extravaganza -- practicing breathing, feeling more comfortable when we...
Jul 23, 202415 min read
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Breathing Lessons
After getting held under water a bit too long by the enormous waves at surf camp, one of the goals that emerged from our group...
Jul 1, 202411 min read
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A Year In the Sea
I started this blog one year ago. Last year, I was out on my own at Blackies on Father's Day, the June Gloom blanketing everything in its...
Jun 18, 202410 min read
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San O: Peak Experiences
I now know why surfers love this place. The waves break far out into the deep. Multiple lines of waves rolling in for what seems like...
Jun 14, 202411 min read
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San O Surf Camp Diary: Getting Past the Peak
Three Months Before Surf Camp Big plans to swim every morning, lift weights, and generally increase my fitness for surf camp with Endless...
Jun 10, 202412 min read
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River Jetties
Happy First Anniversary to the Surfing Sisterhood! And to Haley, who celebrated her third Surferversary this weekend! Woot! We've had two...
May 28, 202415 min read
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Party Wave
I did it! After a year of surfing, I finally stood up on the board like I meant it and sailed several waves alllll the way in! I didn't...
May 13, 202411 min read
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Surfing a Paddleboard
A couple of the girls and I signed up for a different surf school this spring. They started earlier than our Favorite Surf School and it...
May 5, 202410 min read
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