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Feb 1420 min read
Blue Nail Polish
Saturday, there was a shooting on the pier. Someone accused of shooting another human in another town drove their car to Newport Beach,...
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Jan 3020 min read
Walled
While a common phrase in surfing is "When in doubt, paddle out," there was no doubt the other about the conditions. Water temperature 56...
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Jan 1017 min read
Getting Snaked
Let's first focus on the absolute decadence of this surf sesh: clear blue sky, crystal clear cold water, the bright sun warming my...
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Dec 11, 202421 min read
Custody of the Eyes
In a Facebook post on the Surfing Life, Tibetan Buddhist monk Anam Thubten wrote, "When I first came from Tibet, I found the ocean to be...
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Nov 20, 202418 min read
Maya and the Wave
Awhile back, a couple of us drove up to Santa Monica to see a screening of the film Maya and the Wave . Maya Gabeira  is a big wave...
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Nov 12, 202419 min read
Halloween Costume Surf
Happy Halloween, Witches! Our surf coven surfed in costume this Halloween season and had a wonderful time on a glorious morning. A...
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Oct 24, 202414 min read
Livin' the Dream
We had a wonderful experience the other day with our awesome surf instructor, Paige , at Doheny. A number of us commissioned her to take...
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Oct 7, 20248 min read
The Gray Cathedral
From Google AI: "The marine layer is a weather phenomenon that occurs when cool, moist air from the ocean meets warmer, drier air from...
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Sep 26, 202411 min read
Local Summer
I went to the beach recently on my own. I sat in the sand on my deep blue cotton towel south of Balboa Pier and stared at the ocean for...
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Sep 15, 202418 min read
Wave Selection
This has been such a big summer – expansive in many ways. I continue to stand up now and stay up on the board nearly every time. After 16...
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Sep 8, 202410 min read
Failing Expectations
I can so do it now, people. I don't know what has happened, but it has CLICKED. I can stand up on every wave I catch now. My feet just...
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Jul 23, 202415 min read
Breathing With
We did another class with Waterlogged this weekend -- a 6-hour extravaganza -- practicing breathing, feeling more comfortable when we...
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Jul 1, 202411 min read
Breathing Lessons
After getting held under water a bit too long by the enormous waves at surf camp, one of the goals that emerged from our group...
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Jun 18, 202410 min read
A Year In the Sea
I started this blog one year ago. Last year, I was out on my own at Blackies on Father's Day, the June Gloom blanketing everything in its...
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Jun 14, 202411 min read
San O: Peak Experiences
I now know why surfers love this place. The waves break far out into the deep. Multiple lines of waves rolling in for what seems like...
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Jun 10, 202412 min read
San O Surf Camp Diary: Getting Past the Peak
Three Months Before Surf Camp Big plans to swim every morning, lift weights, and generally increase my fitness for surf camp with Endless...
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May 28, 202415 min read
River Jetties
Happy First Anniversary to the Surfing Sisterhood! And to Haley, who celebrated her third Surferversary this weekend! Woot! We've had two...
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May 13, 202411 min read
Party Wave
I did it! After a year of surfing, I finally stood up on the board like I meant it and sailed several waves alllll the way in! I didn't...
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May 5, 202410 min read
Surfing a Paddleboard
A couple of the girls and I signed up for a different surf school this spring. They started earlier than our Favorite Surf School and it...
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Apr 19, 202411 min read
Sharks in the Water
Secret Surf Society held a conference the other day and before we went out, we saw this washed up on the beach. Looking at the bite...
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Apr 7, 20248 min read
Are you regular or goofy?
Back in the water yesterday on a stormy day! Bucket list item checked: surfing in the rain. I had imagined surfing in the rain to be like...
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Mar 22, 20247 min read
72-Hour Rule
It has been a long winter. Not a frozen-solid-under-3-feet-of-snow long winter like I grew up with in the Midwest, but a long winter by...
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Jan 5, 20245 min read
Experts Only
Boxing Day 2023. Secret Surf Society Sesh. It was still dark when I loaded the surfboard in the car. A sliver of gold and orange light...
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Dec 10, 20237 min read
In Between Waves
It's cold. I've chickened out of surfing this morning, because...it's cold. Air temperature in the 40s is my limit! I'm also waiting on...
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