Saltwater for Breakfast

This whole thing began because I saw a dad teaching his daughter how to surf one day at Blackies soon after we started surfing, and it made me incredibly sad. I remember seeing how tender he was with his little girl, how careful he was with her, how they laughed, how she gave him her rapt attention and tried so hard to do what he was telling her. I paddled closer to them, so I could hear his directions -- maybe get a few tips. I couldn't hear very well over the crashing waves

"You shoulda been here yesterday!" My favorite phrase and bumper sticker. It made me laugh out loud the first time I heard it. There's a joy in it and a nostalgia for the day before, a longing for the brilliant time we had and so deeply want to have again. I hear it all the time, "Yesterday was so fun!" or "Yesterday was great! You shoulda been here." A similar phrase came out of my mouth one day at Blackies. It was a big day: big waves coming fast and frequent, one right beh

The other night, Surf Sensei and I went out for a sunset surf. There is nothing like surfing as the sun goes down; it's my favorite thing in the world. The colors of the California sunset are always the same: blue sky fading to deep maroon near the water, yellow, orange, red, and sometimes, a hot pink if you're lucky. The colors reflect off the water and you surf through golden waves. Going out with Surf Sensei is always a pleasure, but this time was especially cool: we share