Saltwater for Breakfast

"You shoulda been here yesterday!" My favorite phrase and bumper sticker. It made me laugh out loud the first time I heard it. There's a joy in it and a nostalgia for the day before, a longing for the brilliant time we had and so deeply want to have again. I hear it all the time, "Yesterday was so fun!" or "Yesterday was great! You shoulda been here." A similar phrase came out of my mouth one day at Blackies. It was a big day: big waves coming fast and frequent, one right beh

The other night, Surf Sensei and I went out for a sunset surf. There is nothing like surfing as the sun goes down; it's my favorite thing in the world. The colors of the California sunset are always the same: blue sky fading to deep maroon near the water, yellow, orange, red, and sometimes, a hot pink if you're lucky. The colors reflect off the water and you surf through golden waves. Going out with Surf Sensei is always a pleasure, but this time was especially cool: we share

Surfing the other day at Blackies was a stunner of a morning. The marine layer thick, waves small, water glassy, a perfect day. A friend of mine brought a young friend of hers to surf for the first time; the young woman stood up on her first wave and sailed right in! We were both excited for her and envious at the same time! It took me a year of high quality failure to reach the same feat. I caught a couple waves and chatted with Surf Sensei, who is always full of interesting