Saltwater for Breakfast

Girls Can't Surf is a documentary about how a few women transformed what I will call the briefly male-dominated sport of surfing and made it more equitable and inclusive, paving the way for women like me to surf. Along with documentaries like Mercury 13 and Let Them Wear Towels, Girls Can’t Surf is ultimately inspiring, but mostly just infuriating and exhausting. I’ve been so focused on the doing of the sport, the logistics, skills, stuff, and local, present-day culture of Bl

A voluptuous goddess is perhaps not well suited for surfing. Wahine Kai Surf Club new member meet and greet at Bolsa Chica State Beach On that gloomy day last week when I went surfing alone for the first time, a person on stand up paddle board passed by me. It was striking to see this bright blue paddle board and colorful wetsuit float on the invisible border between the sea and sky. Everything was an even steel gray, so the blue really popped. Thoughts intruded from my inner

It was one of those June Gloom days when you couldn't tell the difference between ocean and sky. All pictures from pexels.com. This is the first time I surfed alone. Sunday morning at 7 am, Father's Day 2023. My crew was off doing other things, so I went out with my new board in the gray gloom of June in Southern California. Blackies north of Newport Beach Pier is always busy, so I wasn't really alone. I am beginning to learn and it is amazing. For my 55th birthday this year,