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Custody of the Eyes
In a Facebook post on the Surfing Life, Tibetan Buddhist monk Anam Thubten wrote, "When I first came from Tibet, I found the ocean to be...
Dec 11, 202421 min read


Maya and the Wave
Awhile back, a couple of us drove up to Santa Monica to see a screening of the film Maya and the Wave . Maya Gabeira is a big wave...
Nov 20, 202418 min read


Halloween Costume Surf
Happy Halloween, Witches! Our surf coven surfed in costume this Halloween season and had a wonderful time on a glorious morning. A...
Nov 12, 202419 min read


Livin' the Dream
We had a wonderful experience the other day with our awesome surf instructor, Paige , at Doheny. A number of us commissioned her to take...
Oct 24, 202414 min read


The Gray Cathedral
From Google AI: "The marine layer is a weather phenomenon that occurs when cool, moist air from the ocean meets warmer, drier air from...
Oct 7, 20248 min read


Local Summer
I went to the beach recently on my own. I sat in the sand on my deep blue cotton towel south of Balboa Pier and stared at the ocean for...
Sep 26, 202411 min read


Wave Selection
This has been such a big summer – expansive in many ways. I continue to stand up now and stay up on the board nearly every time. After 16...
Sep 15, 202418 min read


Failing Expectations
I can so do it now, people. I don't know what has happened, but it has CLICKED. I can stand up on every wave I catch now. My feet just...
Sep 8, 202410 min read


A Conspiracy of Joy
We did another class with Waterlogged this weekend -- a 6-hour extravaganza -- practicing breathing, feeling more comfortable when we don't have breath, and understanding our physical and emotional limits. We began the day by sharing what we love about the ocean and what scares us. We all love the peacefulness of the ocean, how it helps us forget the outside world for a bit. Many of us have mentioned how surfing helps us in our regular lives, either by giving us space to be o
Jul 23, 202414 min read


Breathing Lessons
After getting held under water a bit too long by the enormous waves at surf camp, one of the goals that emerged from our group...
Jul 1, 202411 min read


A Year In the Sea
I started this blog one year ago. Last year , I was out on my own at Blackies on Father's Day, the June Gloom blanketing everything in...
Jun 18, 202410 min read


San O: Peak Experiences
I now know why surfers love this place. The waves break far out into the deep. Multiple lines of waves rolling in for what seems like...
Jun 14, 202411 min read


San O Surf Camp Diary: Getting Past the Peak
Three Months Before Surf Camp Big plans to swim every morning, lift weights, and generally increase my fitness for surf camp with Endless...
Jun 10, 202412 min read


River Jetties
Happy First Anniversary to the Surfing Sisterhood! And to Haley, who celebrated her third Surferversary this weekend! Woot! We've had two...
May 28, 202416 min read


Party Wave
I did it! After a year of surfing, I finally stood up on the board like I meant it and sailed several waves alllll the way in! I didn't...
May 13, 202411 min read


Surfing a Paddleboard
A couple of the girls and I signed up for a different surf school this spring. They started earlier than our Favorite Surf School and it...
May 5, 202410 min read


Sharks in the Water
Secret Surf Society held a conference the other day and before we went out, we saw this washed up on the beach. Dead Common Dolphin...
Apr 19, 202411 min read


Are you regular or goofy?
Back in the water yesterday on a stormy day! Bucket list item checked: surfing in the rain. I had imagined surfing in the rain to be like...
Apr 7, 20248 min read


72-Hour Rule
It has been a long winter. Not a frozen-solid-under-3-feet-of-snow long winter like I grew up with in the Midwest, but a long winter by...
Mar 22, 20247 min read


Experts Only
Boxing Day 2023. Secret Surf Society Sesh. It was still dark when I loaded the surfboard in the car. A sliver of gold and orange light...
Jan 5, 20245 min read


In Between Waves
It's cold. I've chickened out of surfing this morning, because...it's cold. Air temperature in the 40s is my limit! I'm also waiting on...
Dec 10, 20237 min read


Secret Surf Society
It's Tuesday. I get up in the dark to arrange the car. When I leave the house, it's 50 degrees. Surfline reports the water temperature at...
Nov 28, 20234 min read


Ann's Epic Day
Conditions were perfect. No wind. Small, mellow, friendly waves with lots of time in between to rest. Not a struggle to get outside....
Nov 26, 20238 min read


Sunset Surf
Haven't been out on the water that much this month. Life getting in the way. But dear surf sister, Sherri, went with me last weekend for...
Oct 29, 20236 min read
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