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Surfing a Paddleboard
A couple of the girls and I signed up for a different surf school this spring. They started earlier than our Favorite Surf School and it...
May 5, 202410 min read
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Sharks in the Water
Secret Surf Society held a conference the other day and before we went out, we saw this washed up on the beach. Looking at the bite...
Apr 19, 202411 min read
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Are you regular or goofy?
Back in the water yesterday on a stormy day! Bucket list item checked: surfing in the rain. I had imagined surfing in the rain to be like...
Apr 7, 20248 min read
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72-Hour Rule
It has been a long winter. Not a frozen-solid-under-3-feet-of-snow long winter like I grew up with in the Midwest, but a long winter by...
Mar 22, 20247 min read
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Experts Only
Boxing Day 2023. Secret Surf Society Sesh. It was still dark when I loaded the surfboard in the car. A sliver of gold and orange light...
Jan 5, 20245 min read
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In Between Waves
It's cold. I've chickened out of surfing this morning, because...it's cold. Air temperature in the 40s is my limit! I'm also waiting on...
Dec 10, 20237 min read
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Secret Surf Society
It's Tuesday. I get up in the dark to arrange the car. When I leave the house, it's 50 degrees. Surfline reports the water temperature at...
Nov 28, 20234 min read
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Ann's Epic Day
Conditions were perfect. No wind. Small, mellow, friendly waves with lots of time in between to rest. Not a struggle to get outside....
Nov 26, 20238 min read
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Sunset Surf
Haven't been out on the water that much this month. Life getting in the way. But dear surf sister, Sherri, went with me last weekend for...
Oct 29, 20236 min read
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Friendly Waves
Notes on My First Summer of Surfing As I was rinsing off at the beach shower this morning, another surfer walked up to do the same. I...
Oct 29, 20233 min read
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Single Swell Days
I did it -- I stood up on my board for a whole second. :) It felt great! It was a single swell day, according to our new surf instructor,...
Sep 16, 20235 min read
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Happy Californiaversary
Happy Californiaversary to me! I moved to California one year ago on Labor Day weekend! And what a year it has been! Though COVID is ever...
Sep 4, 20233 min read
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Surf Girls Hawai'i and Everywhere Else
I was sitting at a women's college basketball game with my friend, Barb, several years ago. We were watching the warm up and chatting...
Aug 31, 20236 min read
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Getting Caught Inside
When I was a kid in the midwest, we went to the local public, park district swimming pool. There was a kiddie pool for the little kids...
Aug 6, 20237 min read
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Board Meeting: Quarterly Report
It's been roughly three months since I started surfing. Time to assess my performance, losses, and assets. LOL. A quarterly report of...
Jul 30, 20238 min read
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Surf Camp: The High Was Worth the Pain
In one part of the classic set of interviews with Bill Moyers, Joseph Campbell discussed the meaning of life. He said, “People say that...
Jul 20, 20237 min read
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Girls Can't ... Surf? Really?
Girls Can't Surf is a documentary about how a few women transformed what I will call the briefly male-dominated sport of surfing and...
Jul 9, 202310 min read
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Surfboards and Self-Compassion
I was the 16th person to paddle out to the line up this morning. We were there by 7 am due to the holiday weekend. I saw Haley out there...
Jul 2, 20239 min read
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Sunday Surf Day!
Blackies was hopping this morning! Sunday Surf Day with the girls is the joy of my week. Newport Beach is a big tourist location, so...
Jun 25, 20236 min read
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Beauty is the Beast
A voluptuous goddess is perhaps not well suited for surfing. On that gloomy day last week when I went surfing alone for the first time, a...
Jun 23, 20236 min read
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Saltwater for Breakfast
It was one of those June Gloom days when you couldn't tell the difference between ocean and sky. This is the first time I surfed alone....
Jun 22, 20235 min read
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