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Getting Caught Inside
When I was a kid in the midwest, we went to the local public, park district swimming pool. There was a kiddie pool for the little kids...
Aug 6, 20237 min read


Board Meeting: Quarterly Report
It's been roughly three months since I started surfing. Time to assess my performance, losses, and assets. LOL. A quarterly report of...
Jul 30, 20238 min read


Surf Camp: The High Was Worth the Pain
In one part of the classic set of interviews with Bill Moyers, Joseph Campbell discussed the meaning of life. He said, “People say that...
Jul 20, 20237 min read


Girls Can't ... Surf? Really?
Girls Can't Surf is a documentary about how a few women transformed what I will call the briefly male-dominated sport of surfing and...
Jul 9, 202310 min read


Surfboards and Self-Compassion
I was the 16th person to paddle out to the line up this morning. We were there by 7 am due to the holiday weekend. I saw Haley out there...
Jul 2, 20239 min read


Sunday Surf Day!
Blackies was hopping this morning! Sunday Surf Day with the girls is the joy of my week. Newport Beach is a big tourist location, so...
Jun 25, 20236 min read


Beauty is the Beast
A voluptuous goddess is perhaps not well suited for surfing. On that gloomy day last week when I went surfing alone for the first time, a...
Jun 23, 20236 min read


Saltwater for Breakfast
It was one of those June Gloom days when you couldn't tell the difference between ocean and sky. This is the first time I surfed alone....
Jun 22, 20235 min read
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